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Tasting Notes: October

11.10.24

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7 min read

TO DRINK
TO EAT
TO EXPLORE
TO TRY
TO DISCOVER

TO DRINK

Oktoberfest Inspirations

Pauly Niederberg Helden Riesling Kabinett 2023

Like someone's bottled a crisp autumn morning. This Mosel gem marries together old vines, ambient fermentation and foudre ageing into a light, off-dry Riesling that will make you welcome the earlier evenings.

Stenner Pinot Noir

A red, crafted by royalty. Well, wine royalty. Which is better, in our book. Fourth-generation vintner Malenka Stenner is a former Mainz Wine Princess, and her family-owned vineyard in Rheinhassen turns out a Pinot Noir that would make Burgundy blush. Aged in barrique, it's all dark fruits and chocolate notes.

Maroto, Weiss 2022

Also hailing from Rheinhassen, maker Martin Wörner channelled his upbringing on a strawberry farm into wines so alive they seem to burst out of the bottle. This orange is a field blend - with Muskateller, Bacchus, and Riesling in the mix, among others - and is unfined and unfiltered, its tropical notes cut with citrus tang.

Haunting Harvest

Ode 'Amphora' Alicante Boushcet

This isn't just a wine; it's a time machine. Aged in ancient amphorae, this Alicante Boushcet is vibrant, power and elegant. It pairs brilliantly with slow-cooked stews or hard cheeses, and it's patient too. If you can resist its siren call, it will happily evolve in your cellar for a decade.

Hugh Hamilton Oddball Saperavi

South Australia, via the Caucasus. So Caucaussie? Fortunately, this meeting of Australian winemakers and Georgian grapes is rather more rewarding than portmanteau. Hugh Hamilton's experiment with the ancient Saperavi in McLaren Vale has yielded a wine that's dark and complex, with a floral nose and flavours of cherry, thyme and tobacco.

Bedoba Saperavi 2021

Or perhaps you prefer your Old World grapes a bit older? Bedoba might be a new winemaker, but it channels a winemaking lineage dating back to 1939, which is partly why this Saperavi spends part of its life in traditional Georgian qvevri (those fascinating clay vessels buried in the ground). Almost guaranteed to have you Googling flights to Tbilisi.

TO EAT

Buttery Goodness

Though we're long past the days of rules like only white with fish, one wine-pairing axiom remains true: to create balance, seek contrast. Which is why brown butter, whether it's served with spuds or seafood, is best cut with acidity. Among our go-tos right now is Quincy. Sancerre's lesser-known cousin is a Sauvignon Blanc from the Loire that slices through brown butter's richness like a hot knife through, er…well you get the drift. Try it with this crisp gnocchi, Brussels sprouts and brown butter, a dish that elevates that little brassica from once-a-year side to all-the-time star.

For scallops with herbed brown butter, reach for an Assyrtiko. Its citrus and stone fruit flavours provide a refreshing contrast, while the minerality from Santorini's volcanic soils enhances the scallops' delicate flavour.

Of course, it's equally true that sometimes, like minds are the best bedfellows. Pair this everyday brown butter cake with a Marsala Dolce from Sicily. Its spicy dried fruit and sweet nuttiness complement the cake's caramel notes, combining into something more than the sum of its already wonderful parts.

Roasted Salads

Za'atar roasted vegetable farro salad is a celebration of autumn's earthy flavours. Pair it with a Morgon – its complex, earthy profile is like tucking into a cosy sweater. A hearty dish, like peppered Bavette steak salad with roast new potatoes, calls for a wine with depth. Try a Brunello di Montalcino, all rich red fruit and dried herb flavours, but not so heavy you forgot that half your plate is leaves. Spice tends to need spice, and this slow-roast Persian lamb with pomegranate salad is ably supported by a Terrasses du Larzac, which pours on layers of black plum, blackberry, and hints of herbs and liquorice.

TO EXPLORE

House museums

Imagine if your eccentric, art-loving uncle decided to turn his house into a gallery. That's Kettle's Yard. Founded by Jim Ede, it's a place where carefully curated objects and artworks will have you rethinking your home décor. As will Geoffrey Bawa's Number 11, in Sri Lanka, where east meets west meets simmering violence just beyond the threshold. Though it's a tranquil oasis amid Colombo's urban bustle, it's impossible to ignore the world that it was built to shut out. Unlike the Eames House, LA's temple of mid-century modernism, where endless glass barely delineates the internal and external worlds.

Autumnal Escapes

The 18th-century Rectory Hotel is the perfect blend of contemporary style and rural charm. Pack your cosiest cashmere, bring a good book (or three), and prepare to fall in love with the English countryside all over again.

Nestled on Ikuchijima Island, the Zumi Setoda, a 140-year-old boutique hotel, is a lesson in luxurious minimalism. Enjoy citrus-infused soaks, tranquil bike rides, and a restorative sentō experience.

Imagine a serene motor lodge nestled in 5,000 square miles of protected Adirondack parkland. With 25 rooms, including cosy Lushna cabins, Eastwind Lake Placid in New York state is the perfect base for autumn adventures. Whether you're into fly-fishing, hiking, or simply toasting marshmallows by the fire pit, Eastwind has you covered.

TO TRY

Dadcore Dining

Fergus Henderson's iconic London restaurant, St John, turned 30 this year. At the high priest of nose-to-tail eating, the winelist is as extensive as it is approachable. So much so that you might find yourself working through nose to tail as well. A few hundred miles south, Bistro Paul Bert is quintessential Paris, in restaurant form. The chalkboard menu changes daily, and the wine list spans from "Tuesday night dinner" to "once-in-a-lifetime splurge". Their steak frites and île flottante are the stuff of legend. Or, thousands of miles south-east, you'll find a modern twist on dadcore, with wood-fired cooking and a focus on sharing plates. Ester in Sydney, also has a wine list that is an adventure, featuring natural and biodynamic options alongside classics. It's like your dad got really into vinyl and started shopping at the cool record store.

Modern Takes

Kricket in London is a master class in modern Indian cuisine, pairing British produce with inspiration from India's diverse regions. Their Bhel Puri and Poussin Ghee Roast are so good, they might just ruin other Indian restaurants for you. Helpfully, Mokonuts' blend of French technique and Middle Eastern cuisine won't ruin that particular fusion for you, but only because you won't find many other places doing it. Their natural wine list might make you think again about your local wine bar, though. Bringing Georgian cuisine into the 21st century, Chama Mama in New York offers modern interpretations of traditional dishes. Their wine list features rare Georgian wines made from ancient grape varieties, using traditional qvevri methods. History, but make it delicious.

TO DISCOVER

Collaborations that Intrigue

Known for their exquisite wooden chairs, Mattiazzi has turned their craftsmanship to the kitchen in partnership with Monocle. Their wooden bowls will brighten up any place-setting, no matter the seating. Sophie Lou Jacobson's Tulipa collection, is a love letter to craftsmanship and decorative arts, offering an array of vases, candle sconces, pendant lights, and mirrors inspired by de Gournay wallpaper. The partnership between design Studio Omelette and zero-waste restaurant, Silo, is sustainability with style, proving that doing good can look good too.

Chilling Reads

Spook season is upon us, but forgo the jumps scares of the cinema and settle in with something properly terrifying. The Haunting of Hill House by Shirley Jackson is a seminal horror novel that has inspired countless tales. The Folio Society edition is particularly handsome, perfect for those who also judge books by their cover. Stephen King’s bleakest novel, Pet Sematary, is dark, intense and not for the faint-hearted. Set in Maine, it explores grief, horror, and why sometimes, dead is better. Great Granny Webster by Caroline Blackwood is a wickedly funny novella that blends gothic elements with black humour, in a layered portrait of four generations of women, and the trauma they carry with them.